Model Posing Secrets: Building a Professional Model Portfolio

The purpose of a model’s portfolio is to show her versatility and aptitude as a model.  It should contain a varied assortment of shots that show different emotions and looks.  It should be a good example of her range as a posing model.  After all, it is her calling card, her tool to woo potential clients.  With so much riding on a model’s port, care should be taken to ensure that it is put together as professionally as possible.  Both the photographer and model posing play integral roles in creating a glamour model portfolio.  While the model may have the task of conveying different facial expressions, it is the task of the photographer to help her by drawing them out.

The symbiotic relationship of model and photographer is one of creativity and communication.  When it is at its best, great shots emerge and the model receives a portfolio that is a solid representation of her and her abilities.

For the Photographer

Of course it is your job to take pictures, but that isn’t your only job!  In getting those pictures, those awesome shots, you have to do a little work.  It is part of your job to help your model.  Encourage her, show her how to pose and help to draw out different expressions from her.  Talking to her is one of the most effective methods of achieving this.  Weave various scenarios that evoke certain emotions from her.  You want to get her creative juices flowing and awaken her imagination.  Talk with her as you shoot, offering tips, praising her, giving encouragement and make suggestions.

When you aren’t behind the lens, you should be doing research.  Watch people and the different expressions that they display.  Notice a cocked eyebrow or a half smile and think about the situation that spawned that particular expression.  Use this to recreate the same expressions in your model.

Every part of the face makes up a single expression so you want to look at the face as a whole, but pay attention to the little details.  Expressive eyes can make a shot.  The rest of the face can be expressionless, but fiery, expressive eyes can convey enough emotion to create a dramatic shot.  The mouth is also very expressive, as are the eyebrows.  The tilt of the head is also a part of displaying expression.  Write down several expressions such as boredom, fear, joy, concern and anxiety, then record several situations that brought about those emotions.  You can use those situations by relating them to your model.

Photos in magazines are also a great way to research interesting expressions.  Keep in mind though, that each model will be a little different.  While you want to achieve the overall concept of anger or joy, remain flexible enough to accept the model’s own brand of expression.  As you look at the photos, consider the expression that each model displays.  Think about how you can get that expression from your model.

Once you have done some research, you need to put it into practice by working with a model.  Watch each detail in her face and notice the little nuances that add depth to each expression.

If you are just starting out and need some practice, find a few models who are interested in doing TFP/CD (Time for Prints or CD).  TFP/CD means that they will pose for you and  you give them prints or a CD of the shoot in return.  This is a win win situation for both you and the model.  You get experience and usually some shots for your own portfolio and the model gets experience and shots for her port as well.

Before the shoot, decide on several different expressions the try.  If you don’t trust your memory, jot them down on a pad or use notecards.  Add phrases that could be used as prompts to achieve the different expressions.  Don’t rely too heavily on this method, though, because photography is a visual art and written instructions won’t take you as far as you like.

Work with your models, trying the different expressions.  Use stimulating phrases and imagery to draw out the expression.

For the Model

As a female model,  you have a big job.  You are a focal point of the shot and it is up to you to portray various emotions and expressions.  Your portfolio should show your wide range or looks and expressions because this will widen your base so that you appeal to more, varied clients.  Before the shoot, prepare by doing a little research on your own.  High fashion magazines are great tools for the glamour model.  Keep a scrapbook, or idea book, of the more interesting poses and expressions that you would like to try.

With book in hand, stand before the mirror and practice the different expressions from the pictures you collected.  Let the pose in the book be your base pose and expression, perfect it and them begin to move.  Modify the base pose and expression so that you make it your own.  Try to imagine what the model was thinking when she was posing for the shot.  Try not to be self conscious because the camera will pick up on it.  Preparation will increase your confidence and erase your self consciousness, so practice often.

They say that the eyes are the mirror to the soul and that also applies in pictures.  Your eyes can reflect emotion when the rest of your face registers no emotion at all.  Watch your eyes, eyebrows and the area around your eyes to see how you express various emotions like sorrow, joy and anger.  Use a scarf to cover your head and face so that you can only see your eyes.  Try showing different expressions through your eyes.

Use your imagination to come up with different scenarios that cause you to experience certain emotions.  Learn how show these expressions in your face.

Do this activity repeatedly with different expressions until you can just think of something and it shows on your face.  Teach yourself to be joyful, to be afraid, to cry.  Simply looking happy or scared to tearful is not enough.  You have to teach yourself how to experience the emotions at will.

Finally, get in front of the camera.  That is the only way you are going to get any real experience.  Many photographers will do TFP/CD, allowing you to get some good experience, practice your expressions and get some great shots for your portfolio.

Model Posing Techniques: Foot Posing

Although many would say that the most vital aspect of any good fashion shot is the model’s face, in reality, it is an intricate combination of fine details that make up the composition of the shot. From face to feet, no part of the posing model must detract from the final shot. Photography is about lines and angles, and a poorly placed foot or awkwardly cocked ankle can ruin an other great shot.

The foot pivots on the ankle, rolling in and out, up and  down.  A common aspect of leg posing is moving the ankle from side to side. This is best seen from the front view of the foot. The ankle begins at the starting point of directly over the toes, and “cocks” in toward the other foot, or out away from the other foot.

There are many different terms to describe how the ankle moves.  Models and photographers tend to refer to the action as “rolling” in (toward the other foot) or “rolling” out (away from the other foot).   The various points between the extremes of in and out can convey many different concepts.  Each of the three main points does have its own significance and care should be taken to refrain from creating too much of an angle because the break interrupts the flow of the line of the leg.

When the ankle is rolled in, meaning it is cocked toward the other foot, the line is a graceful curve.  This lends an air of femininity and sophistication.  It is considered a very elegant foot pose, particularly when the cocked foot is placed slightly in front of the other foot.  The heel of the forward foot is placed at the arch of the rear foot with the toes of the rear foot turned slightly out.  This is a very basic foot pose.  When the right foot leads, it is sometimes referred to as a “right hemisphere,” whereas when the left foot leads it is called a “left hemisphere.”  The pose can also be modified by sliding the front foot to the front or side a few inches.

Arrogance, haughtiness and strength can be conveyed by keeping the ankle straight so that it is directly in line with the foot.  This is a strong foot pose in the fashion world and is typically reserved for less feminine garments.  It may be considered somewhat of a masculine pose as well, but it is used by commercial models when the ultra feminine style is not desired.  

When the ankle is rolled out, it is usually to convey a casual air or immaturity.  It is also often used in more high fashion shots for a funky, chic impact.  If you go with this pose, though, do so sparingly.  It is not aesthetically pleasing in many types of shots.  It all depends on what you are modeling, the tone of the set and the image that you want to convey.

The foot itself also moves in a fan like arch.  Whether standing or sitting, ankle and foot placement are important.  When standing, the model typically has her weight supported on one foot, the “basic foot,” and has a foot in front or to the side, the “show foot.”  For instance, for a right hemisphere, the basic foot would be the left foot because it is bearing the model’s weight while the show foot would be the right foot.  In this pose, the toes can be moved at various angles to the body, straight ahead, slightly to the right or at a 90 degree angle to the right.  

While the right hemisphere and left hemisphere are considered to be the basic model stance, the starting point for other poses or even walking, another somewhat neutral position of the feet is side by side.  From there, the toes can go anywhere from pointed in toward the other foot to pointed out.

Although the range of motion of the foot is rather wide, 90 degrees in either direction, it is not often used to the extreme.  Usually, the foot is either pointing straight ahead, in the neutral position, or slightly fanned out.

When the foot is fanned in so that the toes are pointing inward, the effect is pigeon toed which is usually associated with childishness or playfulness.  It can also indicate shyness, awkwardness or inexperience.

When the foot is fanned outward to an extreme degree, the effect is generally that of casual or unsophisticated.  This is a popular pose for teen models, particularly when conveying a rocker image or a nonchalant tone.  

It is important that a model understands that each part of her body conveys a certain image, tone or mood, whether tilting her head or posing her foot. Because of this, the model posing should have a strong grasp of how to execute the poses and how to control the various parts of her body to create the clean lines that are desired by photographers.

Model Posing Techniques: Glamour Model Photography

Glamour photography can create images of beauty, expression, beauty or any combination of the three qualities.  While getting the best out of the posing model is the primary goal of directors and photographers, there are contending ideas regarding the best way to accomplish the task.  In the end, though, there are some basic elements that are fairly consistent in every photo shoot.   However, the placement of the model’s head can be the most challenging.

One point of contention is the methodology of the execution of the shoot.  Some photographers insist that their models have a series of set poses, where the head is placed in a particular manner, the mouth just so and just the right tilt.  The other side of the fence, however, argues that this control undermines the spontaneity and natural feel of the shot.

While each side has valid points to support their beliefs, it is advisable that a photographer just starting out try both ways before deciding on which route to take.  

It is important that both photographer and model have a working knowledge of posing technique.  It will be up to the photographer, model and even the elements of the individual job that will determine the posing technique: controlled and posed, candid or a combination of the two.

The experienced photographer will have many little tricks up there sleeve to get glamour model posing to act and react in the ways that they want for each shot.  They will have developed way of controlling the model without having to physically place her in the position.  Each photographer will be a little different from the next.  Some will use words or show the model the pose they want by doing it themselves.  Others may use suggestions or psychological motivation in order to achieve the expression that they want.  Some will dictate every pose while others will suggest a starting point and encourage the model to move while they shoot.  Regardless the techniques a photographer uses, as long as they communicate clearly and intelligently, any capable model can take direction and pose correctly while appearing natural, not showing discomfort and without losing spontaneity.

Photographers tend to rely heavily on the skill and model talent to inspire, create her own poses and move on her own so that they can capture just the right shots.

This means that part of a photographer’s success in capturing that perfect shot lies in his ability to make the model feel at ease, relax and feel comfortable enough to make suggestions and try different poses on their own.

During a shoot, many models may experience frustration as they come to feel that they have performed every possible head position available when all they have actually done is slowly turn their head from left to right.  This can be frustrating to the photographer as well, particularly the one who is allowing the model to move freely and create her own poses.  In such cases, you may try suggesting other positions that will give her different angles, thus lending a wider variety of head tilts and turns.

If the model is full face, shoulders squared to the lens, try turning her 45 degrees to the left or right.  From there, you can direct her to perform a series of head turns and tilts, lifting her chin or dropping her chin, tilting her head to one side or the other.  You can rotate her further so that her shoulders are perpendicular to the camera and do the same tilts, chin drops and chin lifts.  Turning her further so that her back is to the camera, have her lean on one arm or hand on a second posing stool and have her look over her shoulder, will give yet more options for great shots.

The head tilt, right or left be performed at three different chin levels.  The chin can be raised slightly, dropped or straight, parallel to the bottom of the frame.  If you find that your model has trouble with the head tilt, you can try use your hand to illustrate the level of the tilt.  If you hold your hand up straight with the side of you hand facing the model, you can tip your hand slightly in the direction you want her to tilt her head.  She will naturally be inclined to move her head the same way you are moving your hand.  Combining verbal cues with your hand gestures will help her achieve the desired poses.  Using your hand to show “down” or “drop” for her chin or “raise” her chin, will prompt her to follow your gestures.

When she hit the mark, let her know she is doing well.  Encourage her by saying “great shot!” or “that’s the one!”  This will build her confidence and she will feel more comfortable in front of the camera as well as be more inclined to try other movements and poses.  If you see she is faltering or struggling, just use your hand to signal her and help guide her into a new set of poses.

Work with your glamour model, be supportive and encouraging to her, give clear direction and you will get the great shots you want.

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